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Baalbeck
10h45 at night from the mountains
that overlook Beirut, Lebanon.
I got back an hour ago from
a long ride in time and history. I m taking a couple days'
trip in Lebanon, country which is only an hour ride from
Damas, where I remain based at Steeves' home.
I cought up right away with
my old lebanese friend and student from Bangkok who is
back with his parents in his country. They proposed to
tour me around for the day in the valley of Beckaa. We
departured early morning after the traditionnal cheese
crepes and tea. Direction Baalbek.
Beirut is right on
the Mediteranean cost and is backed by 2000 meter high
(at the highest) mountains. In winter you can snow in
the morning, swim in the ocean at lunch and go back skiing
if you are not tired...
| Those mountains
are called the Lebanese mountains and could be 20
km wide. We drove the Mercedes in this lunar landscape
only inhabbited by bedouins. You finnally get to a
view point of the really beautiful valley of Becka.
It s a very wide valley (15 km), green, flat and very
long. We got stoped about 4 times on the way by either
Lebanese army, Syrian army or Hezbolla. Mike's father
stops and opens his window with a viril "MarlHaba".
Driving along the pavo fields, Doctor V. explains
me the complexity of the conflicts that have devastated
the country for maybe 20 years until 1990. |
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Doctor V., ambassador on stand
by, is an encyclopedy. He is crystal clear in his explainations
and i drank his words all the way.
On the other side of the
valley, you find the anti-lebanese mountains that separate
Lebanon from Syria. Baalbeck is the site of an amazing
masterpiece of history. Located in this small town that
have been for a thousand year the passage for traders
coming from Asia and Europe, stands 4 roman temples and
a worship area of good size. The building date from 67
AD and have been built for 300 years. The Temple of Jupiter,
leader of the gods, still displays 6 22 meters high columns,
the biggest in the wolrd (the parthenon s ones are only
7 meters high). They have been made in Egypte and 8 of
them are now holding Ste Sophia in Istanbul... small world.
Next you have the Bacchus temple which is simply almost
complete. It was truthfully unbelievable walking below
those giant stones overlooking the valley. The guide was
trying to tell the stories of the stones but unfortunatly
for her, Doctor V. kept on teaching her lessons. As he
says, this valley has a strange magnetism. Blocking all
the rain coming from the ocean (and leaving none for Syria),
it is surrounded by water sources and anything can grow
on this land. Even war... as it s been the place of many
slaughters.
We then headed to a small
village where Doctor V. used to leave. We ate at this
super good restaurant next to a samll water retenue. I
hope you can see the pictures soon. Now, i m back at my
hotel, on the hill. Tomorrow, i ll visit a cave on the
way to Beirut, and will head back to Syria after a walk
downtown Beirut. I then plan to spend a week in the desert,
in Palmyra, the masterpiece of Syria. I ll probably talk
to u from Egypte in around 10 days.
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